Look closely before you buy that van.
A step-by-step inspection list for a used van or camper conversion, from the paperwork to the roof seams, the propane and the water. Mark each item OK or Concern on your phone at the viewing, add notes, and print what you found for your mechanic.
Van: ________________________
Listing: ________________________
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Nothing checked yet. Mark each item OK or Concern as you go.
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For each item, tap ✓ OK if it looks fine or ⚠ Concern if something needs a closer look. Tap again to clear it. Skip anything that doesn’t apply.
01 Before you go
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- Ask the seller for the VIN and a photo of the titleA seller who won’t share them is a warning sign.
- Read up on common problems for that year, model and engine
- Ask the seller not to start the engine before you arriveA cold start shows starting and smoke problems a warm engine can hide.
- Plan to view it in daylight, and in dry weather if you can
- Bring a flashlight, a magnet, gloves, a rag and something to lie on
- Bring someone with you, and tell someone where you’re going
- Decide your top price, and don’t carry a large amount of cash to a first viewing
02 Paperwork and history
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- The title is in the seller’s name, and they have it with them
- Title status is clean, not salvage, rebuilt, flood or another brandAsk directly. A branded title affects insurance, value and resale.
- No lien: no lender is listed on the title, or there’s a written plan to pay it off and release itAgree the payoff steps before any money changes hands.
- The VIN on the title matches the dashboard plate and the door-pillar sticker
- Mileage on the title and service records lines up with the odometer
- Service records and receipts, including for the conversion parts
- Open safety recalls checked with the VINCheck recalls on NHTSA.gov ↗
- Registration is current, and you know any inspection or emissions test your state needs
- Ask whether it’s titled as a van or as a motorhome or RVThis can affect insurance, registration and where you can park.
03 Exterior and rust
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- Rocker panels under the doors: no bubbling, holes or soft spots
- Wheel arches and the lip behind each wheel
- Bottoms of the cab doors, sliding door and rear doors, and their drain holes
- Roof seams, and the sealant around fans, vents, solar mounts and the roof rackLook for cracked, lifting or missing sealant. Leaks often start here.
- Added windows: even sealant and no rust at the cut edges
- Panel gaps, paint that doesn’t match, or fillerA magnet won’t stick well over thick body filler.
- Tires: even wear, enough tread, and their ageThe last four digits of the DOT code are the week and year the tire was made.
- Glass, mirrors and all the lights work and aren’t cracked
04 Underside
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- Frame rails and crossmembers: surface rust only, no flaking, holes or fresh undercoat hiding rust
- No fresh drips under the engine or transmissionBlack or brown is usually oil, green, orange or pink can be coolant, red can be transmission fluid.
- Exhaust: no holes, heavy rust or loose hangers
- Brake and fuel lines aren’t heavily rusted or crusty
- Shocks aren’t leaking, springs aren’t broken, and the back doesn’t sag
- Water and waste tanks and their pipes are solidly mounted, with no leaks
05 Engine and drivetrain
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- Cold start: starts easily, warning lights go out, no heavy smoke
- Oil level and color look right; no milky residue under the oil cap
- Coolant level is right, with no oily film
- Belts and hoses: no cracks, bulges or leaks
- No knocking, ticking or whining at idle
- Stored fault codes read with an OBD-II scanner, if you have oneMost US cars and light vans from 1996 on have the OBD-II port under the dashboard.
- Diesel: ask about the emissions parts (DPF, EGR, DEF) and any repairs to themSkip this if it runs on gas.
06 Test drive
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- Drive long enough for the engine to warm up fully, including highway speed
- Steering tracks straight, with no wander or clunks over bumps
- Brakes stop straight, with no grinding, squeal or pulsing pedal
- Gears change smoothly, no slipping, and reverse works
- Temperature gauge stays steady, and no warning lights come on
- Air conditioning and heat both work
- After the drive, look underneath again for new drips and listen for new noises
07 Conversion electrical
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- House battery type (lithium, AGM or flooded lead-acid) and age, with receipts if possible
- Batteries are strapped down, terminals are covered, and flooded lead-acid batteries are vented outside
- Fuse panel or breakers are labeled, with a fuse close to the battery on the main cables
- Wiring is tidy, clipped down and protected where it passes through metal
- Charging works: solar shows a charge, plus alternator and shore power if fitted
- Lights, fan, fridge, outlets and inverter all work with something plugged in
- Ask who did the electrical work, and whether there’s a wiring diagram
08 Propane (LP gas)
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Skip this group if the van has no propane.
- Tank or cylinder dateIn the US, a portable DOT cylinder must be requalified within 12 years of the date stamped on it before it can be refilled.
- The tank is secured, in a sealed locker vented to the outside or mounted outside
- Seller shows a leak test: soapy water on the joints with the gas on, and no bubblesNever use a flame to look for leaks.
- A propane detector near the floor works and is within its replace-by date
- A carbon monoxide alarm is fitted and within its replace-by date
- Stove, heater, water heater and fridge light and run properly on gas
- Ask who installed the gas system and whether it was ever inspected
09 Water
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- The pump builds pressure, then stays quiet with the taps closedA pump that keeps switching on by itself often means a leak.
- No drips, damp wood or stains under the sink and along the pipes
- Fresh tank: size, clean inside, no smell, and you know how to fill and drain it
- Grey tank or container: size, no smell, and it drains fully
- Water heater and shower work, if fitted
- Ask whether the water system has ever frozen, and how it’s winterized
10 Interior
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- No smell of mold, mildew or dampA strong air freshener can be covering one.
- No water stains on the ceiling, walls, around windows and fans, or under the bed
- Walls and floor feel solid near the windows, doors and wheel arches
- Roof fan works and windows open; no signs of heavy condensation
- Ask what insulation was used and where
- Furniture is bolted to the van, and cabinets latch shut for driving
- A seat with a seatbelt for everyone who’ll ride, and added seats fitted properly
11 Questions to ask the seller
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- Why are you selling?
- How long have you owned it, and how was it used?
- Who did the build, and when? Are there build photos?
- Has it had accidents, leaks or major repairs?
- What’s broken, or will need work soon?
- What’s included in the price, and what are you keeping?
- Is the price negotiable, and how would you like to be paid?
- Can I take it to a mechanic of my choice before I decide?
12 After the viewing
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- Book a pre-purchase inspection with an independent mechanic you choose
- Have a qualified person check the gas and electrical work if you’re unsure
- Get a vehicle history report using the VIN
- Use a written bill of sale, and sign the title over the way your state requiresMake a bill of sale →
- Pay in a way you can both verify, such as a cashier’s check confirmed with the bank or a bank transfer
- Arrange insurance before you drive away, and check your registration deadline
A checklist helps you notice things; it doesn’t replace a pre-purchase inspection by a qualified mechanic. Have gas and electrical systems checked by someone qualified if you’re unsure.
How to use this checklist
Open it on your phone at the viewing and work down the list. Tap ✓ OK when an item looks fine and ⚠ Concern when something needs a closer look or a question. Your concerns collect in a list at the top, ready to ask the seller about or show a mechanic. Your marks and notes are saved only in this browser on this device. Give each van a name and listing link so you know which one you were looking at, and use “Reset the checklist” before the next one.
A converted van is two purchases
You’re buying the vehicle and the build. A mechanic can check the engine, brakes, suspension and rust. The conversion needs its own look: water leaks around roof fans and added windows, how the batteries and wiring were done, and whether the propane system is secured, vented and leak-free. If you’re unsure about the gas or electrical work, ask a qualified person to inspect it before you pay.
Paperwork worth checking twice
- Title: in the seller’s name, with no brand such as salvage or rebuilt unless you’ve priced that in.
- Liens: if a lender is listed, agree in writing how it will be paid off and released before you hand over money.
- VIN: the same on the title, the dashboard plate and the door-pillar sticker. Check open recalls with the NHTSA recall lookup.
- Mileage: NHTSA suggests comparing the title mileage with the odometer and service records, and checking that tire and pedal wear fit the mileage shown.
Propane cylinders have a date
In the US, a portable propane cylinder (the DOT kind you can carry) has to be requalified within 12 years of its manufacture date before it can be refilled, according to PHMSA. Look for the date stamped on the cylinder. Permanently mounted tanks follow different rules, so ask the seller what it is and when it was last checked.
After the viewing
If you’re still interested, book a pre-purchase inspection with a mechanic you choose, not one the seller picks. When you agree a price, use a written bill of sale, sign the title over the way your state requires, and pay in a way you can both verify, such as a cashier’s check confirmed with the issuing bank or a bank transfer.
Can I print it?
Yes. “Print or save as PDF” prints your current marks, notes and concerns. Reset the checklist first if you want a blank copy to fill in by hand.
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